The Japanese language is complex and simple at the same time. A single graphic can be a whole sentence. In the late eighties I decided to go to Japanese lessons at evening classes in England. The spoken language is expressive and beautiful at times, but I was totally incapable of writing it. In some ways, ‘writing’ is not quite what you are doing. It’s more like drawing. It’s an art form. It’s beautiful really. The Japanese language is a mix of three script types: Chinese characters called Kanji, and two symbolic scripts called hiragana and katakana. Although Japanese is written in Chinese characters, and uses many of the same words, the two languages are not related. I still remember quite a bit from my Japanese classes, but probably not enough to get by in Japan. I can say thank you [which is good.] and tell someone that I don’t speak much Japanese. [which IS useful.]

I cross from Kyushu island across the Kanmonkyo Bridge onto Honshu island over the Kanmon straits. The bridge was completed in 1973.

Once on the Chugoku expressway, I am into the mountains. Japan has a number of famous mountains, Mount Fuji being the most well known, but actually, japan is quite mountainous. Certainly more than I thought.

Google maps plots me a route with two choices, and I decide to take the more northern route through the mountains. I have ‘booked’ a room in Hotel Ishimoto near the centre of Hiroshima, which has parking and a choice of both western rooms, with a bed, and Japanese rooms, without a bed. It’s mid afternoon when I arrive in the city and i will stay over and spend tomorrow being a tourist. This is an important visit for me, virtual or otherwise.

A cargo or container ship can come in all sorts of sizes and carry everything the modern world needs, from gas and oil, to clothes and bananas, or camper vans. There are thousands of container ships traveling the seas of the world every day. For logistics companies the world over, if you need to get a container somewhere fast, fly it there. Everything else goes on a ship like this. One big misconception is that travelling by ship is cheaper than flying. This is simply not true. Most container ships cost US$80 – 140 per day, per person. Remember that this includes three meals a day, a cabin and the transport itself.

Schedules onboard revolve around mealtimes which, if you travel on some of the French ships, can be a gourmet delight. Apart from the meals, the rest of the day is pretty much your own. After all of the driving and having to get somewhere quick, this is a bit of a shock. I can;t help thinking that my virtual self is asleep most of the first day! Personally, I would head up to the bridge and have a good old chat with the Captain on sea navigation. Actually, if you knew me well, I would go and tell the Captain about sea navigation and probably explain where he may be going wrong.

My ship (Yes, it’s mine now.) is hauling about 2000 containers eastward towards Japan and then onto the west coast of America. The value of the cargo can reach £300 million. Container ships are designed in such a manner that no space is wasted. Their capacity is measured in TEUs (Twenty-foot Equivalent Units), the number of 20-foot containers (each 20×8½x8½, or 6×2.6×2.6m) a vessel can carry, even though the majority of containers used today are 40 feet (12m) in length. Above a certain size, container ships do not carry their own loading gear, so loading and unloading can only be done at ports with the necessary cranes. However, smaller ships with capacities up to 2,900 TEUs are often equipped with their own cranes.

Tomorrow we get into Japan and I make my first trip across the islands. I won’t spoil the news, so I’m off for a drink with the other passengers in the lounge, and then I will get some sleep.

Loading up the container ship.

The entrance to the port area.

I board the ship and meet a few more people taking the trip, although they are going much further than I am. Cargo ships usually offer single or double bed cabins and most of the vessels have exterior cabins with sitting areas, desk, shower and WC. If you want the pleasures of gourmet travel, consider going with one of the French ships, who have excellent chefs aboard. Cargo ships can carry a maximum of 12 passengers, depending on the ship, although most vessels only have accommodation for 4 to 6 passengers.

I found that most ships can’t always carry the people along with their cargo unless organised well in advance. Some of these ships are booked up weeks in advance at a port, which is why I started to look at it when I was in India. Paperwork seems to be reasonably straight-forward, despite the added complication of passing through international and national waters. The trip for me and my camper os a simple one.

My humble cabin.

On a longer trip, I would choose one of these.

So, here I am. I have one of the modest single cabins, but I do get a porthole to look out of. Some of the other cabins are much bigger and more luxurious. I have an itinerary for my two day trip and there’s a barbecue later, so not bad at all. I’ll tell you more later.

The Chinese have had many battles with invading Japanese armies, including during the Second World War. It’s worth noting that the second Sino-Japanese war was began in 1937, (Yes, there was a First, but the Japanese do not officially recognise it as being related.) two years before Britain declared war on Germany. As I near Shanghai, I find myself in the centre of an area that has seen many invasions by Japanese forces over the centuries. Both Sino-Japanese wars were largely due to Japan issuing the Twenty-One demands in 1915. This was all about wrestling more political and trade privileges form China. Needless to say, China were not pleased. What was really interesting, it that the Chinese were partly suported by Germany, the Soviet Union and even the United States. This all changed on December 7th 1941, when the Japanese forces attacked Pearl Harbor.

The Mukden incident, 1931.

The battle of Tai'erzhuang.

The G60 expressway takes me along the river plain with mountains to both sides. I pass through Shangrao and onto Quzhou along the Qu river, the large agricultural plain running either side. I will be following this river all the way to Hangzhou. To the south is the Xianxia Ling mountain range, and to the west are the Yu mountains.

According to Google maps this route should have taken just about eight hours, but with a few stops and a restricted top speed, It actually takes nearly ten hours. I have ‘booked’ a room in the Merchant Marco Hotel, which is pretty central and near the fabulous Xihu lake. I’ll take a look at this in the morning. I am just a couple of hours from Shanghai, where I will organise my most taxing stage of this trip. Across the Pacific. For now, I will get something to eat and take a well earned rest.

I cross the Lushui river near ji’an and take the S69 towards Nanchang further north. To the east runs the Gan River, which stretches 885 km and cuts a line right through the Jiangxi province, before joining the Yangtze river to the north. This open corridor was the primary route for trade and communication between the North China Plain and the Yangtze River valley in the north and the territory of modern Guangdong province in the south. As a result Jiangxi has been strategically important throughout much of China’s history.

I am passing through a region that has so many links for the history of China, it’s difficult to pick just one. Many of these towns and hillsides were once part of a dynastic past, where rule was fierce and refusal would mean certain death. The S69 takes me up and past Zhangshu, a city with a population of over 540,000. Zhangshu can trace it’s origins back to the Western Zhou period, which ran from 1046 to 771 BC and covered the first half of the Zhou dynasty.

Arriving in Nanchang, I drive to the Grand Skylight International, where I will be staying tonight. My double room, which I ‘book’ using Booking.com costs £50 (US$80), which is extremely reasonable, given the impressive hotel I find. It stands along the western edge of the Gangjiang river and facing the Tengwang Pavilion, which I will look into tomorrow.

The Beijing–Hong Kong–Macau Expressway

The Beijing–Hong Kong–Macau Expressway, commonly referred to as the Jinggang’ao Expressway is an expressway that connects the cities of Beijing and Shenzhen at its border with the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. The expressway was completed in October 2004 and it was China’s first north-south expressway route. I filled up the tank as I left the city, but will need to fill up again before arriving.

Guangdong province is one of the wealthiest provinces in mainland China, contributing 12% of the nations GDP, and has some of the largest manufacturing corporations in the country. Guangdong also hosts the largest Import and Export Fair in China called the Canton Fair in Guangdong’s capital city Guangzhou. My destination today is Ganzhou. Guangdong was far away from the centre of ancient Chinese civilization in the north China plain. It was populated by peoples collectively known as the Baiyue, who may have spoken Tai–Kadai languages and been related to the Zhuang people in modern Guangxi. The Qin Dynasty represented the first unified China between 221 and 207 BC. Like many early civilisations around the world, the Qin Dynasty introduced currency, weights and measures, civil administration and organised trade routes. They brought order to an otherwise tribal nation, and set China on the road to bigger things.

In Dingnan, I come off the highway to find something to eat. It’s important to sample local food, as many provinces have different recipes and dishes to test. One of the things to enjoy here is the different street food. Almost everywhere you go will have people on bikes or carts selling a variety of snacks and cheap food. Not speaking the language will mean that nine out of ten sellers will try to over charge you. If you think you are buying a meal for only 30 or 40 pence (about 60 cents US), the money they make is small to western standards. You have to realise that there are some very poor people here, especially in the provinces. They are not insulting you, this is just the way it is. Would you really argue over 50 pence a meal, instead of 20 pence. Probably not. So here is a word of advice. Carry a bundle of 1 Yuan notes (approximately 10 pence). You would be amazed how easy this makes buying things, especially from street stalls. On busy stalls, stand back and watch. See what other people buy and, often as not, you can ask for something you have seen. The food is fantastic.

Tasty filled pancakes.

Yoghurt in a crock cup.

Back on the highway I find that China houses more toll roads than any other country, with Chinese toll roads representing more than 70% of the world’s total toll roads. Nearly all expressways charge tolls. Toll fees are approximately CNY 0.5 per kilometre, and minimum rates (e.g. CNY 5) often apply regardless of distance. However, some are more expensive (the Jinji Expressway costs around CNY 0.66 per kilometre) and some are less expensive (the Jingshi Expressway in Beijing costs around CNY 0.33 per kilometre). It’s worth noting that cheaper expressways do not mean poorer roads or a greater risk of traffic congestion.

In recent years, the toll system has started to use ETC systems. The driver is given a card that they take with them, handing it in when they go through the next toll. This determines the distance and cost and is now widespread. Having money with you is important, and most tolls have money lanes too.

After a largely uneventful drive, I pull in on the outskirts of Ganzhou and have a drink. Pollution is a common city problem in China and recent measures, since the Beijing Olympics, has improved the issue, but not controlled it.

I ‘book’ a hotel room in the Golden Dragon Hotel in Guilin for about 40 US$ for the night, which is just short of Ganzhou city. I leave the camper in the parking bay and retire to my room for a good rest.

There is an accepted speed limit of 100 km/h, but is quite normal to have someone shoot past doing a lot more than that. On this stretch of the G15, there are not that many cars or trucks. Considering the population, I am quite surprised by this.

About a third of that way along I pass Enping. As of 2005, there are 460,000 residents in Enping. Some of the earliest overseas Chinese came from Enping. There are 420,000 overseas Chinese with ancestry in Enping in over 50 countries. That’s a very odd statistic, given that this is a small city in a very large country. Besides the various mountain ranges, mainly to the northeast, the road follows the central area of a flat plain.

I meet a fair number of toll booths along the way, and by the time I reach the Xi river bridge, I have paid quite a bit in fees. Thankfully, this is the last leg of the route today and I draw money from an ATM when I fill up along the G1501. At Nansha, I cross the impressive Numen bridge which spans the Shiziyang river.

I will be visiting Hong Kong tomorrow, so I ‘book’ a hotel in the Futian area of Shenzhen. This is a very modern part of the city, and the roads are in a very ordered layout, much like New York. I park the camper and head for my room. Looking forward to my time in this city and Hong Kong, and I will research the history and culture and find some great food.

So I get a simple breakfast of tea, bread and jam, and make my way to the border road. It’s an easy and well arranged crossing, with the two border buildings either end of the Ka Long Bridge. I pay my dues, have my papers checked a few times and pass through the Vietnam gates. At the Chinese side I go through the same things again, but they get me out of the camper and give it a good look over. I suspect they are rather envious that I have one and they don’t! I am finally allowed through, but I don’t intend to stop, and make my way out onto the G7511 east.

Open road with the wind in my hair.

The initial G7511 takes me along the coast and south of the mountains. It’s a good route and I pass plenty of transports heading in both directions, but not as much traffic as I was expecting. The G75 to Maoming is a good, well maintained road and I make great progress through the area. En-route I pass Zhanjiang, a city of about 7 million people and a fine history. Despite its dynastic past, it was still a simple fishing village in 1898 when the French arrived and occupied the area. The French managed to force the Chinese into a lease of one part, and they renamed it Fort-Boyard and intended to develop it as a major port to take advantage of the silk trade. The port was taken over by the Japanese during the Second World War, and eventually relinquished by the French in 1946 by Charles de Gaulle. The port is now one of the busiest in China and has an annual throughout of more than 2,600 million tons.

The G15 takes me a little north and onto the city of Maoming. There are well built roads everywhere, but not that many vehicles on them. As I drive into Maoming, I notice the tower blocks and larger buildings in all directions.

After nearly an hour on Google, I find a room I can ‘book’ in the Nanguo Hotel for 251 CNY (£25.00) for the night. I am using the Agoda.com site here, which is a little cluttered, but has all the right information. I could stay in the camper, but I am actually feeling a little out of my depth here. Tomorrow I head north east to Shenzhen, and look forward to meeting up with my niece in Honk Kong.

Out of the three routes offered by the map, I choose Route 2 to stay near the coastal area and follow the lowland around the mountain range that overlooks the bays. Vietnam has a wonderfully diverse countryside, but the coastal route, especially on this stretch, is magnificent. Most of the roads are in very good condition, and they are travelled by an assortment of traders and long distance transports. The Chinese play a big part in this region, and many of the ‘locals’ are displaced Chines, or families that have moved here. Conflicts between the two countries have produced an interesting and cross-cultured community.

This region has been the scene of a number of Chinese invasions and the last major issue was in 1979. Chinese forces amassed on the border through December and January. At the time, the Chinese had an alliance with Cambodia, while the Vietnamese became politically closer to the USSR (The former Russian federation). This caused some friction, and Vietnamese citizens were massacred in Cambodia in the lead up to the invasion. On February 17th, China invaded in an attempt to destroy military structure in the north Vietnam region. The Chinese forces advanced and took Lang Son in early March, which represented a last defence before Hanoi. The well trained Vietnamese army pushed back and the Chinese retreated, but systematically destroyed almost everything on their way back across the border.

Back on the coast I am presented with incredibly beautiful scenery. Just three hours east of Hanoi and I head along the TL 326, which runs just north of Ha Long bay, a truly beautiful view. The pillars of limestone protrude from the sea, creating encircled, calm natural harbours.

There are nearly 2000 islets along this coastline, and the fishing community live among them, many on floating harbours that they moor to and fish from. There is something magical about this area.

Heading off north, I join the QL18 towards China. I expect to be in Mong Cai around 15:00 and to cross the border by 17:00.

A coastal journey along the South China Sea.

So I have the earliest breakfast the hotel can give me and I head off to give the camper a check over. Dong Hoi is actually quite nice. Dong Hoi is the capital of the Quang Binh region, and the estuary adds a seaside feel to the whole place and fishing is clearly one of its main industries.

My hotel is just there to the right.

Very picturesque.

In 1926, a French female archaeologist, Madeleine Colani discovered many items in caves in west Quang Binh. With Carbon14 tests, the artefacts were dated back to 10,509 years ago.

Now, I have to say I have a bit of an interest in things dating back to 10,000 BC, or there a bouts. This seems to come up an awful lot in ancient history and is largely seen as the starting point of the warming of the Earth and the end of the Glacial period. In popular culture, Atlantis was destroyed about 9,600 BC. Some people even suggest that an Alien race set up shop around this time in various parts of the world, but that’s for another day.

I head north and find my virtual self on the AH01 again, which is actually quite comforting. Vietnam drive on the right, which is fine, but I do have to pay attention on junctions. In fact, almost all of the countries that drive on the left are old British Colonial states. Practically every other one drives on the right. (You can always check using whatsideoftheroad.com. It seems to be accurate, but second check if it’s important.) For safety sake, if you are a British citizen, like me, register with the Foreign Office’s LOCATE system. Many other western nations have similar systems that allow a quick response if you get into trouble as a traveller. While I am on the subject, the British Foreign Office tell me that there are no current travel restrictions in Vietnam for me.

It takes me almost three hours to get to Vinh, another estuary city on the coast. I cross the Vinh bridge and into the city. In the 1950′s, much of the original city was destroyed in the countless battles between the French and the Viet Minh, which means the city I pass through is mostly modern. As I leave Vinh to the north, I drive into Cua Lo, one of the most popular resorts in this part of Vietnam.

The estuary port.

The Vietnam seaside resort.

One thing I notice about the last few countries I have been through, and that’s how many bridges I get to cross. I barely get a few hours before I have to cross another one. Having the sea on my right is not helping, and I cross another 14 before I arrive at Hanoi. I ‘book’ a room in the Rising Dragon Palace Hotel for £35, just a mile form the railway station and views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. My camper goes into the parking bay and I take an overnight bag. I plan on staying in Hanoi to take the time to look around, get a feel for the city and find some great history.