Following the Grand Trunk Road

admin — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 10:46:33 +0000

I am on what is probably the most important route during the British Raj, the Great Trunk Road. I suspect it wasn’t always this good a drive. History proves that this northern highway has been in use since at least the 3rd Century BC. In the 16th Century, a road was built by the Pushtun emperor Sher Shah Suri, who ruled across northern India. This is largely considered the beginnings of the Great Trunk Road we see now.

Today, the Great Trunk Road is a collection of modern highways and A roads that span a distance of 2,500 km (1,600 mi) from Chittagong, southern Bangladesh, in the East to part of the Jalalabad-Kabul Road in Afghanistan in the west. As I head east, I am sure to meet it further along.

The Ambala cantonment during the British Raj.

A modern highway through Barkatha.

Day 23: Lahore

admin — Sat, 18 Feb 2012 14:01:43 +0000

I can’t believe it has only taken 23 days to get this far. This seriously overpopulated city is the second largest in Pakistan. It was also the capital of the Punjab region under the Britsh Raj. Over a thousand years has developed and sustained this city, with almost every empire through its history having its capital here. The Shahi kingdom profited here during the 11th Century and were followed by the Ghaznavis in the 12th. By the time the British arrived, many of the more historic and impressive buildings and monuments had been here centuries already.

The citadel of the city.

Completed in 1673. Wow.

After yesterday’s long and tiring drive up from Loralai, I have decide to take a day off and see some of this amazing city. It’s Saturday, and tomorrow I will try to cross into India, but right now, I will get a flavour of the busy Lahore. The hotel is very central, so I throw a small backpack over my shoulder, make sure my camper is safe, and walk off to see what I can see.

In 1858, the rule of the British East India Company was transferred to the Crown in the person of Queen Victoria. [She became Empress of India] It lasted until 1947, and some would say that it brought a much needed steady hand. Others saw this as imperial interference. Strictly speaking, of course, it wasn’t just India that the British took over. The new rulers spread out to take in large parts of modern Pakistan, india, Bangladesh and Burma. They brought new industries, like railways, and introduced new trade systems and organisation. Like all dictatorships, they also took advantage of the local people, which never turns out too well.

Lahore Museum, built during the British Raj.

Iqbal or Minto Park, site of the 'Lighthouse of Pakistan'.

I visit the Lahore Museum, which was once curated by Rudyard Kipling’s father. The things you learn. The museum contains a fine selection of paintings and weapons, and is particularly well known for its collection of artefacts from the Gandharan civilisation. Probably the most famous exhibit is the spectacular ‘Fasting Buddha’.

I will be staying in the same hotel for tonight and will head off straight after breakfast towards the border.

Jim's Junket » british raj

Following the Grand Trunk Road

Day 23: Lahore